Design Process of Extraction and Natural Dye Powder Production from Swietenia mahagoni and its Application in Textile Dyeing

Abstract

The use of natural dyes in textile dyeing is the best option to avoid the negative impact of the carcinogenic potential contamination from synthetic dyes. Swietenia mahagoni is one of dye plant that have chemical coumpound as natural dye, such as flavonoid and tannin. Unfortunately, natural dye in Indonesia has not been widely available in the form of ready-made, such as powder form so can not be stored for a long time, the color is less stable and the process takes a long time so it is less practical in its use. The aim of this study was to extract natural dyes from wood and bark of mahagony based on optimum conditions of extraction process, determine the effect of binder treatment to the characteristics of mahagony extract colouring powder using spray dryer, and application of the natural dye in textile dyeing. The scope of this study includes the characteristics of wood and bark of mahagony, determination of appropriate type of solution (water, ethanol, metanol, ethyl acetate), determination of concentration of solution to dissolve the dye contained in the mahagony, determination of effect of binder treatment (without binder, dextrin 2% w/v, arabic gum 2% w/v) to characteristics of mahagony extracted powder, and application of natural dye powder to cotton and silk fabric with different fixative agents (without a fixative agent, alum, calcium oxide and ferrosulfate) to determine their effects on the colour of fabrics and the colour fastness to washing and sun drying treatment. The results showed that bark of mahagony and metanol solvent with concentration of 50% gave the best result on total yield and tannin content. Binder treatment had significant effect on the yield, moisture content, bulk dencity, water solubility, alcohol solubility, and colour stability. The mahagony extracted powders had the yield ranges between 3.38 – 10.36%, moisture content ranges between 6.57-7.23%, bulk density ranges between 0.051– 0.118 g/ml, solubility on water ranges between 77.56 – 81.22%, solubility on alcohol ranges between 57.26 – 92.01%, oHue ranges between 50.30 – 52.83 (red) and the best stability was found on the treatment with arabic gum binder. The fixative agents had significant effects on colour of cotton and silk fabric. Calcium oxide gave the highest colour fastness in silk fabric, while alum gave the highest result on colour fastness in cotton fabric toward washing treatment.