PENGEMBANGAN MODEL ADOPSI CIRCULAR ECONOMY BUSINESS MODEL DI UMKM PAKAIAN JADI INDONESIA

Abstract

Industri pakaian jadi berperan penting dalam perekonomian Indonesia, tetapi industri ini menghasilkan emisi serta limbah tekstil. Circular economy business model mempertahankan nilai produk dan material melalui efisiensi sumber daya, perpanjangan umur pakai, penggunaan kembali, perbaikan, dan pemulihan material. Namun, UMKM pakaian jadi Indonesia masih mengadopsinya secara parsial karena keterbatasan sumber daya dan dukungan ekosistem. Penelitian ini bertujuan mengidentifikasi praktik circular economy berdasarkan literatur; menganalisis pengaruh persepsi dan sikap konsumen terhadap circular purchase intention; menganalisis praktik dan tantangan adopsi pada UMKM; memetakan faktor serta aktor yang memengaruhi implementasi; dan merumuskan model konseptual adopsi circular economy business model bagi UMKM pakaian jadi Indonesia. Penelitian menggunakan mixed methods dan Soft Systems Methodology sebagai kerangka integrasi. Penelitian ini berlangsung sejak November 2023 sampai dengan November 2025. Kajian literatur menganalisis 64 artikel untuk mengidentifikasi arketipe model bisnis, serta 122 artikel secara bibliometrik dan 35 artikel melalui analisis konten untuk memetakan aktor dan kolaborasi. Survei menghasilkan 452 respons valid dari 767 kuesioner yang dianalisis menggunakan SEM PLS. Penelitian kualitatif melibatkan 24 informan dari 14 kelompok narasumber dengan pendalaman pada empat UMKM. Analisis tematik mengidentifikasi praktik, hambatan, dan kapabilitas dinamis. MICMAC memetakan 14 faktor sistem, sedangkan MACTOR menganalisis posisi 14 aktor terhadap tujuh objektif strategis. Seluruh hasil diintegrasikan melalui tujuh tahap Soft Systems Methodology. Kajian literatur menghasilkan sembilan arketipe, yaitu resource efficiency, circular inputs, produce on demand, product use extension, reuse and redistribution, repair and maintenance, resource recovery, industrial symbiosis, serta product as a service. Resource efficiency dan circular inputs menjadi titik masuk yang mudah karena dekat dengan kegiatan internal, sedangkan praktik lain membutuhkan keterlibatan konsumen, mitra pengelola material, teknologi, pembiayaan, dan koordinasi yang kompleks. Hasil SEM PLS menunjukkan bahwa perceived value merupakan prediktor terkuat bagi sikap dengan koefisien 0,455 dan circular purchase intention dengan koefisien 0,401. Sikap berpengaruh terhadap circular purchase intention sebesar 0,314. Awareness memengaruhi sikap, tetapi pengaruh langsungnya terhadap circular purchase intention hanya 0,118. Willingness to pay premium berpengaruh kecil sebesar 0,143. Model menjelaskan 50,6 persen variasi sikap dan 63,5 persen variasi circular purchase intention. Religiosity terutama membentuk awareness dan sikap dengan kontribusi relatif kecil. Konsumen mempertimbangkan manfaat lingkungan sekaligus kualitas, kenyamanan, estetika, daya tahan, harga, nilai sosial, dan kebaruan produk. Studi kasus menunjukkan bahwa UMKM telah menggunakan pewarna alami dan material daur ulang, memanfaatkan sisa kain dan deadstock, serta menjalankan upcycling, repair, redyeing, edukasi, dan pengumpulan produk pascakonsumsi. Namun, praktik tersebut belum terintegrasi karena terkendala sistem pengumpulan dan pemilahan, teknologi daur ulang, mutu dan kontinuitas material, skala ekonomi, tenaga ahli, sertifikasi, pembiayaan, dan permintaan domestik. MICMAC menempatkan literasi dan kapasitas sumber daya manusia sebagai faktor paling berpengaruh. Budaya organisasi dan komitmen manajemen, regulasi dan insentif, serta infrastruktur digital dan informasi pasar menjadi faktor penggerak. Tekanan pasar global, sertifikasi dan pelabelan, serta kolaborasi lintas aktor menjadi faktor penghubung. MACTOR menempatkan Kementerian Perindustrian sebagai aktor dominan. Konvergensi terkuat terbentuk antara Kementerian Perindustrian, asosiasi industri, dan brand lokal, sedangkan penguatan pasokan dan sirkulasi material memperoleh dukungan paling luas. Penelitian menghasilkan model konseptual multi pathway dalam tiga tahap. Tahap adopsi awal mencakup resource efficiency dan circular inputs dengan dominasi sensing. Tahap penguatan mencakup produce on demand, product use extension, reuse and redistribution, repair and maintenance, serta resource recovery dengan dominasi seizing. Tahap kematangan mencakup industrial symbiosis dan product as a service dengan dominasi reconfiguring. Ketiga kapabilitas bekerja pada seluruh tahap dengan dominasi berbeda. Secara teoretis, penelitian menunjukkan bahwa keterbatasan sumber daya dan dukungan ekosistem menjadi kondisi batas bagi kapabilitas dinamis UMKM. Sensing berkembang melalui learning by interacting, sedangkan seizing berlangsung melalui bricolage. Reconfiguring membutuhkan infrastruktur, teknologi, sertifikasi, pembiayaan, dan koordinasi lintas aktor yang tidak dapat disediakan UMKM secara mandiri. Temuan ini memperluas kapabilitas dinamis dari kemampuan internal menjadi kemampuan yang bergantung pada interaksi ekosistem. Model multi pathway juga menunjukkan bahwa jalur adopsi ditentukan oleh kesiapan UMKM dan dukungan ekosistem, bukan urutan yang seragam. Secara praktis, model ini menyediakan peta jalan bagi UMKM untuk memilih jalur adopsi sesuai kapasitasnya dan bagi pemerintah untuk memprioritaskan penguatan sumber daya manusia, sirkulasi material, pembiayaan, sertifikasi, serta kolaborasi lintas aktor.

The apparel industry plays an important role in the Indonesian economy, but it generates emissions and textile waste. The circular economy business model maintains the value of products and materials through resource efficiency, product life extension, reuse, repair, and material recovery. However, Indonesian apparel MSMEs still adopt it partially due to limited resources and ecosystem support. This study aimed to identify circular economy practices based on the literature; analyze the effects of consumer perceptions and attitudes on circular purchase intention; analyze adoption practices and challenges among MSMEs; map the factors and actors influencing implementation; and formulate a conceptual model for the adoption of the circular economy business model by Indonesian apparel MSMEs. The study employed mixed methods and Soft Systems Methodology as an integration framework. The study was conducted from November 2023 to November 2025. The literature review analyzed 64 articles to identify business model archetypes, as well as 122 articles through bibliometric analysis and 35 articles through content analysis to map actors and collaborations. The survey generated 452 valid responses from 767 questionnaires, which were analyzed using PLS-SEM. The qualitative study involved 24 informants from 14 informant groups, with an in-depth examination of four MSMEs. Thematic analysis identified practices, barriers, and dynamic capabilities. MICMAC mapped 14 system factors, while MACTOR analyzed the positions of 14 actors toward seven strategic objectives. All findings were integrated through the seven stages of Soft Systems Methodology. The literature review identified nine archetypes, namely resource efficiency, circular inputs, produce on demand, product use extension, reuse and redistribution, repair and maintenance, resource recovery, industrial symbiosis, and product as a service. Resource efficiency and circular inputs serve as accessible entry points because they are closely related to internal activities, whereas other practices require the involvement of consumers, material management partners, technology, financing, and complex coordination. The PLS-SEM results showed that perceived value was the strongest predictor of attitude, with a coefficient of 0.455, and of circular purchase intention, with a coefficient of 0.401. Attitude affected circular purchase intention by 0.314. Awareness influenced attitude, but its direct effect on circular purchase intention was only 0.118. Willingness to pay premium had a small effect of 0.143. The model explained 50.6 percent of the variance in attitude and 63.5 percent of the variance in circular purchase intention. Religiosity primarily shaped awareness and attitude, with a relatively small contribution. Consumers consider environmental benefits alongside quality, comfort, aesthetics, durability, price, social value, and product novelty. The case studies showed that MSMEs had used natural dyes and recycled materials, utilized fabric scraps and deadstock, and implemented upcycling, repair, redyeing, education, and post-consumer product collection. However, these practices had not been integrated because they were constrained by collection and sorting systems, recycling technology, material quality and continuity, economies of scale, skilled personnel, certification, financing, and domestic demand. MICMAC positioned human resource literacy and capacity as the most influential factors. Organizational culture and management commitment, regulations and incentives, as well as digital infrastructure and market information, were identified as driving factors. Global market pressure, certification and labeling, and cross-actor collaboration were identified as linkage factors. MACTOR positioned the Ministry of Industry as the dominant actor. The strongest convergence was formed among the Ministry of Industry, industry associations, and local brands, while strengthening material supply and circulation received the broadest support. The study produced a three-stage multi-pathway conceptual model. The initial adoption stage includes resource efficiency and circular inputs, with sensing as the dominant capability. The strengthening stage includes produce on demand, product use extension, reuse and redistribution, repair and maintenance, and resource recovery, with seizing as the dominant capability. The maturity stage includes industrial symbiosis and product as a service, with reconfiguring as the dominant capability. The three capabilities operate across all stages with different levels of dominance. Theoretically, the study showed that resource limitations and ecosystem support constitute boundary conditions for the dynamic capabilities of MSMEs. Sensing develops through learning by interacting, while seizing occurs through bricolage. Reconfiguring requires infrastructure, technology, certification, financing, and cross-actor coordination that MSMEs cannot provide independently. These findings extend dynamic capabilities from internal capabilities to capabilities that depend on ecosystem interactions. The multi-pathway model also shows that adoption pathways are determined by MSME readiness and ecosystem support, rather than by a uniform sequence. In practical terms, the model provides a roadmap for MSMEs to select adoption pathways according to their capacities and for the government to prioritize the strengthening of human resources, material circulation, financing, certification, and cross-actor collaboration.